Dog Health

Is your dog’s “car anxiety” really motion sickness?

May 28, 2018 by sharon Leave a Comment

When my dog Barnum was about two years old, he started to become impossible to drive with. About twenty minutes into any car trip, he would pace, drool, and shriek continuously. It was horrible for both of us. He seemed like he was having a panic attack, and nothing I did could soothe him — not chews, not treats, not training, not comforting words. Soon, he started to freak out as soon as he was in the car — before I even turned on the engine.

One day, I mentioned the issue to the behavior consultant I was apprenticing with. She suggested that my dog was actually car sick. That turned out to be the magic answer. That idea had never occurred to me because Barnum didn’t vomit. He seemed to just suddenly “freak out.” Once I took steps to address my dog’s car sickness, it really turned the situation around.

A dog that is motion sick does not always vomit, so signs of motion sickness may be misinterpreted as a behavior issue. These can include

Panting
Pacing
Drooling
Whining, panting, or other vocalizations
Hunching, lips pulled back, tight facial skin, whites of eyes showing, etc.

Symptoms may start as soon as the car moves or may emerge only after a specific period of time or only on bumpy or windy roads, etc. Some dogs seem fine in the car but after arriving at their destination, refuse food, don’t follow cues, lick their lips, yawn, or act tired. I see this sometimes with dogs in class. If they are given anti-nausea remedies before class or get half an hour to recover from nausea before class starts, they are able to work.

Riding on his thick foam pad, veterinary medications, and in a relaxed down-stay, Barnum can ride comfortably for hours!

Additionally, once a dog has experienced feeling sick in the car (especially repeatedly), she may make an emotional association between feeling ill and being in the car. This can result in anxious-type behavior and refusal to get in the car, etc.

If you suspect your dog has motion sickness, your first step is to speak to your vet to diagnose or rule out a physical cause to a behavior issue. Trial and error is sometimes required. They may suggest Dramamine, Benadryl, ginger, or other remedies. Sometimes the only treatment that works is a prescription medication, such as Cerenia, which is specifically for nausea in dogs.

Adjusting the environment with regard to noise, air, vision, and vibration may also your dog ride more comfortably. In Barnum’s case, what worked the best was to prevent him from looking out the windows. I believe his motion sickness is the result of an inner ear/balance issue that was caused by a year of severe ear infections. For many dogs, putting them in a plastic crate or putting a towel over a metal crate works to block the nauseating visual stimuli. However, putting Barnum in a crate made the situation worse. What has worked the best is having him tethered to a zip line for safety while lying on a thick foam mat that absorbs sound and vibration. To prevent him from looking out the windows, I have him trained to lie down instead of sitting or standing. Different training and environmental options will work for different dogs, depending on their physical and behavioral needs.

Once your dog is physically comfortable, start building a positive association with the car. Start training by rewarding your dog for looking at the car, moving toward the car, jumping in the car, etc. First do this while the car is turned off and all the doors are open, then with all the doors shut (but engine off), then with the car idling in the driveway, before finally taking short trips around the block or to places your dog loves.

Note: Never coerce the dog into the car (tug the leash, scold, etc.), as this tends to make dogs more resistant and suspicious.

Once your dog is happily jumping into the car, it can help to give special treats in the car. Giving a dog a great chew, such as a bully stick or a stuffed Kong, while you read in the front seat is often helpful. Later, a chew can help to keep them from looking out the window, but if the dog is still experiencing an upset stomach or is too anxious to eat, this may backfire. With time, patience, and help from your veterinarian and trainer, your dog can enjoy riding with you again!

Help! My dog needs exercise — in winter!

December 13, 2017 by sharon Leave a Comment

Recently a client asked how they can keep their high-energy dog exercised during these short, dark days of winter. I sent them several suggestions, and they were really excited to try them out.

TIP: Physical exercise is important, but don’t discount mental exercise, too. A mental workout can really wear your dog out! Use both for the ultimate in a well-behaved dog.

Here are a few fun ways to work your dog’s body and mind when the weather is lousy and the evenings are dark. Different ones will work for different dogs and households:

Creative commons usage from Dozer Does youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bAHf57sucxo

Hide and seek in the house – version 1 — find the human: Put your dog in a Sit-Stay or Down-Stay — or if they don’t know that yet, have another member of the family hold them — then go and hide. Call your dog once and wait for him to find you. Give him praise, petting, and treats when he finds you. This is also great for training coming when called.
Will work for food. Don’t put your dog’s meals in a bowl that only takes a minute for them to eat! Get a feeder toy — see my favorites in my post on enrichment to make your dog work for their meals. It keeps your dog occupied for a lot longer, engages their body and mind, and they love it!
Hide and seek in the house – version 2 — find the food: Put your dog in a Sit-Stay or Down-Stay — or if they don’t know that yet, have another member of the family hold them — and hide a little pile of food or your dog’s feeder toy. She has to find it. Nose work can be very tiring. You can hide several piles of food or feeder toys all over the house!
Similarly, if the ground is not covered in snow, you can add foraging and nosework to your dog’s routine by tossing her kibble into the yard (as long as she is inside a gate or tethered). She has to use her nose to find every kibble! A great way to work for meals!
Used with permission of Eileenanddogs – https://eileenanddogs.com/2013/04/24/dog-play-flirt-poles/
A flirt pole is like a cat dancer for dogs. It’s a stick with a rope and a toy attached to it. You can either buy one here or buy one here or make one (video instruction) or make one (easy how-to article). This does need to be played outside, but it’s a way you can get some pretty intense exercise in a small space, like a yard, and it does not require going for a walk, etc. If you have floodlights, you can even do it after dark.
Play ball with a glow-in-the-dark ball. I’ve heard good things about the Chuckit! Max Glow Pro Launcher.
If you do want to walk your dog safely in the dark, check out Whole Dog Journal’s great review of nighttime safety gear.
If you have carpeted stairs in your home, and your dog is confident on the stairs, young, healthy, and nimble, you can give your dog a lot of exercise in a short period by calling him up and down the stairs between two people (and also, again, good recall training!). If there is only one person in the home, you can play fetch up and down the stairs by standing at the bottom and tossing a toy to the top. You can even toss treats up and down the stairs. Just make sure your dog is not so excited that he’s not being careful enough. You don’t want your dog to get injured. Don’t do this if stairs are open in the back, wood, slippery, etc.
If you have a treadmill, you can train your dog to walk on the treadmill. (If you don’t have one, you can usually get one free or cheap from Freecycle or Craigslist.) Take it slow and train it positively like this or treadmill train positively like this. Some dogs learn to love this!

These are just a few options. The possibilities are endless. What about you? How do you keep your dog exercised over the winter?

Walking Harnesses & Halters: Which Is Right for Your Dog?

March 28, 2016 by sharon Leave a Comment

We are all used to our dogs wearing collars. Collars are convenient and important for holding our dogs’ identification tags. However, they are not always the best solution for clipping on the leash and taking a walk. In some cases, a body harness is better. However, there are many types of harnesses, and not all of them will be the right choice for your dog. How do you choose what to use?

Harnesses Take the Strain Off Your Dog’s Neck

Color drawing of a dog pulling hard on a leash attached to a collar — WikiHow image Creative Commons use

The benefit of a body harness is in reducing stress to your dog’s neck. This is especially important for brachycephalic (flat-face) dogs such as English Bulldogs, Cavaliers, Pugs, etc., as well as for dogs on a tether or tie-out, or for dogs that are reactive, aggressive, or fearful on walks and may pull suddenly or lunge. But it can be helpful for all dogs in reducing torque on the neck. Harnesses can protect the trachea, thyroid, and the bones and tissues of the neck and back.

Also note that the harnesses mentioned in this post are humane options that do not cause pain to dogs. We do not recommend harnesses that work by pinching the dog painfully or by restricting the dog’s breathing.

There are many different types of harnesses, and harnesses are used for many different purposes. This post focuses on pet dog harnesses used for walking a dog.

I’ve divided up the types of harnesses based on where the leash attaches: on the back of the dog, the front (chest) of the dog, or both.

Back-Clip Harnesses

Two huskies on a sled dog team with Royal Canadian Mounted Police checking their harnesses — Back-clip harness create the “sled dog effect”

Harnesses that clip on your dog’s back are good for giving your dog a sense of freedom, which can be useful for some reactivity behavior modification or in scenting/tracking work. However, back-clip harnesses encourage pulling by allowing your dog to lean in with their whole body. While they can be great for around the house or if you need to tether your dog on a tie-out, they are a terrible choice for training loose-leash walking. If you want to discourage pulling on walks, choose a different type of harness!

Anti-Pull Harnesses

When harnesses are designed for you to attach the leash on the dog’s chest, they are often referred to as “front-clip harnesses.” Some of these harnesses have a front attachment but don’t affect the dog’s pulling much or at all. Front-clip harnesses that are designed to reduce pulling are often referred to as “no pull” or “anti-pull” harnesses.

Black nylon webbing harness — Black SENSE-ation harness

The Easy-Walk Harness (by PetSafe) and the SENSE-ation harness (by Soft Touch Concepts) work to reduce pulling by using the dog’s momentum to turn your dog toward you when they pull. These harnesses are often quite effective at interrupting habitual pullers. They can also offer that extra bit of leverage needed by a small, injured, or frail person walking a large dog.

The benefit of these harnesses is that most dogs are comfortable in them right away. There is very little “adjustment phase,” so they can help with pulling immediately. They also don’t cause pain or discomfort to the dog and are easy for people to learn to use.

The major drawback to these harnesses is that they affect a dog’s gait, reducing the shoulders’ range of motion. Although we don’t yet know if there are long-term repercussions to this, it’s reasonable to think it’s not healthy to walk a dog this way on a permanent basis. Because of possible harmful effects on your dog’s shoulders, these harnesses should only be worn when needed (not left on all the time) and used while the dog is being trained. I also urge caution and a discussion with your vet if you’re using them on a puppy. Their use should be discontinued after good leash manners have been established.

Front- AND Back-Clip Harnesses

The Balance Harness is designed to be comfortable for dogs for ongoing wear without affecting gait or encouraging pulling. It has both front-clip and back-clip attachment points that allow a range of leash options, including attaching a double-ended leash for “steering” the dog, often helpful when working with reactive dogs. This is my favorite multipurpose harness. It reduces pulling in some dogs but will not make a big impact on its own with a committed puller or a dog that lunges or pulls unpredictably. It’s a great option for a dog that has learned to walk nicely on leash most of the time but may “forget himself” in a moment of excitement.

Another Option: Head Halters

Head and shoulders of a Golden Retriever wearing a sky blue Gentle Leader -- thin nylon webbing over muzzle and under chin -- with a tennis ball in its mouth — Dogs can eat, drink, pant, bark, and hold things in their mouths with a Gentle Leader on.

For many service dogs and for dogs that pull very hard or unpredictably even after training, or for pet owners who cannot risk being pulled at all, a head halter – a collar that has a loop over the nose and behind the ears – is often the best option. Halters operate on the principle that where the nose goes, the body must follow. They provide a lot of leverage to even a slight person walking a large dog.

The biggest drawback to head halters is that most dogs hate the way they feel initially, so they must be introduced slowly and positively, which can take several weeks. For clients who are training with me, I incorporate conditioning to the head collar during lessons. (Another, more minor drawback, especially for service dog teams, is that the general public often confuses head halters with muzzles. As the picture of the Golden Retriever with the ball in its mouth indicates, a Gentle Leader is not a muzzle!)

Their use also requires a caution: Head halters should never be yanked or jerked. Never give your dog a “correction” with a head halter (as you would with a choke chain). Because a head halter gives you so much leverage, an abrupt jerk could seriously harm their neck.

I usually recommend the Gentle Leader by PetSafe because it is inexpensive and available at virtually every pet store, and because I’ve had such good results with it, but there are numerous other head collars that are also good.

The key to introducing a head halter is to use slow, gradual desensitization and counterconditioning to teach your dog to be comfortable and happy in their head collar. You should spend several weeks pairing treats, then meals, then play with the head collar before you start using it on a walk. Check out one of our Gentle Leader Workshops to learn how to do this.

Which Gear Trains Your Dog to Walk Nicely on a Leash?….

None of them! The gear you use can help or hinder your training efforts, but no gear trains your dog. You have to do that.

To train your dog, reward your dog for walking nicely at your side on a loose leash, and never let a tight leash get your dog somewhere! Tight leashes stop people and dogs and make life boring. Loose leashes lead to good smells, good treats, and interesting places.

What about you? What is your favorite dog walking equipment and why?

Health and Behavior Considerations of Spay/Neuter Surgery

March 21, 2016 by sharon 2 Comments

Early Spay/Neuter Considerations

Your primary source of guidance and consideration on desexing (spaying or neutering) your dog should be your dog’s veterinarian. This is a complex issue that requires more study. We make the best decisions we can based on current evidence. Our goal is to provide useful information to support you and your vet in coming to the best decision for your dog and your family. If you think your dog may have a behavior issue that would be positively or negatively influenced by desexing, I encourage you to discuss this with your vet.

Desexing involves removing some of your dog’s sex organs, which affects hormone levels that impact health and behavior. In males, the primary hormone affected is testosterone. In females, the primary hormones affected are estrogen and progesterone. Here are some of the pros and cons of early spay/neuter.

Health Benefits of Early Spay/Neuter

The surgery is easier for the vet and faster and easier to recover from for the puppy. Simply put, there is less tissue involved when a puppy is small, especially for male puppies, and this can make the surgery less complicated and potentially painful.
For shelter dogs or other homeless/unowned dogs, desexing at a young age guarantees the dog will not produce unwanted puppies.
In situations where owners may be unlikely or unable to spay/neuter later on (where finances are unreliable or when regular/ongoing vet care is unreliable), vets may prefer to schedule the surgery early on just to make sure it happens.

Health Risks of Early Spay/Neuter

Cancer. Evidence of higher rates of several types cancers among dogs that were desexed at a young age is mounting. These cancers include hemangiosarcoma, lymphoma, osteosarcoma (bone cancer), and mast cell tumors. Cancer is a serious health issue for all dogs. In certain breeds, these cancers are even more likely.
Musculoskeletal issues, including abnormal bone growth and development. Canine cruciate ligament ruptures are more likely in dogs desexed at a young age, and hip dysplasia may be more likely or more severe in dogs neutered early. Dr. Karen Becker writes, “Studies … concluded dogs spayed or neutered under one year of age grew significantly taller than non-sterilized dogs or those dogs spayed or neutered after puberty. The earlier the spay or neuter procedure, the taller the dog. … [I]t appears that the removal of estrogen-producing organs in immature dogs – both females and males – can cause growth plates to remain open. These animals continue to grow and wind up with abnormal growth patterns and bone structure. This results in irregular body proportions, possible cartilage issues, and joint conformation issues.”
Hypothyroidism or other endocrine issues. A dog’s hormones affect each other. When some of the hormones are removed at an early age, this may affect the other hormones on an ongoing basis. Some vets believe that endocrine diseases such as hypothyroidism and atypical Cushing’s syndrome may be more likely in dogs that are desexed early.
Additional health risks are explained in the links provided at the end of this handout, including some breed-specific risks (e.g., Golden retrievers, Labrador retrievers, etc.)

Articles and Links on Health Considerations of Spay/Neuter

Behavioral Effects of Early Spay/Neuter

There is even less reliable evidence on the behavioral effects of desexing dogs. You may notice that some of the assertions in the links for behavioral considerations below contradict each other. Some long-standing assertions about the behavioral benefits of desexing are now up in the air. Still, here is my best effort at presenting what we believe, currently, about the behavioral effects of spay/neuter:

A recent study has found that excitability, aggression, and anxiety were higher among spayed/neutered dogs of both sexes
In males, sex-specific behaviors (marking, roaming, mounting) are likely to be reduced by neutering
In both sexes, food drive, overeating, and obesity are more likely after desexing
In the past, it was believed that neutering males made some types of aggression less likely. More recent studies indicate that aggression in neutered males is more likely, regardless of when they are neutered
In females, studies indicate that spaying makes aggression more likely. Spaying before the age of 12 months markedly increases likelihood of aggression.
In male dogs, fear- and anxiety-related behavior problems (such as canine compulsive disorder) are higher in neutered dogs than intact dogs. I have not found data on female dogs and anxiety/fear. Since aggression in both male and female dogs typically has a large fear component, this is also an important consideration with regard to aggression.

What Does This All Mean for My Dog?

Every situation is unique. It is important to discuss your concerns with your veterinarian. With my clients, I am happy to discuss the pros and cons of their particular dog.

Generally speaking (there are many variables), I recommend spay/neuter in these cases:

Male dogs with sex-linked behavior problems (mounting/humping, roaming, or marking)
Female dogs whose heat cycles are causing a significant management or training challenge to the owners
Male dogs with conflict-control aggression (“dominance aggression”). This is rare. The overwhelming majority of aggressive dogs have fear-based aggression.
Male dogs that are highly distracted, have low interest in food, and training around distraction using food is a high priority for the owner (such as a future service dog)

Generally speaking (there are many variables), I discourage spay/neuter in these cases:

A male dog with a tendency toward anxiety, fear, skittishness, or compulsivity
Any dog under 18 months of age – especially large-breed dogs, dogs prone to certain cancers affected by early desexing, or dogs prone to musculoskeletal issues. I encourage waiting to neuter until the growth plates close.
Dogs under 24 months of age if they are giant or large-breed dogs, have an intended sports career or intended as mobility service dogs. I encourage waiting to neuter until the growth plates close.