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The “Safe Place” Protocol (for dogs that are fearful, reactive, or hyper with strangers)

February 12, 2019 by sharon Leave a Comment

The arrival of strangers in the home often leads to undesirable behavior — jumping up to greet, excited barking, or general mild chaos. In most cases, this is easily trained by rewarding the dog for keeping “four on the floor.”

For other dogs, the arrival of strangers is a serious problem. This is the case when a dog is reactive to strangers (barks, lunges, growls, etc.) or shows fear-avoidance (hides, cries, barks and retreats, etc.), as well as dogs who are “over the top” in greeting with jumping, muzzle-punching, scratching, etc.

Training for these dogs can involve a range of strategies, from training the dog to go to a mat or crate to lie down, counterconditioning the dog to be more comfortable with strangers, training the dog to back up, etc. However, a critical first step is to set up management and enrichment so that dogs don’t continue to practice bad behavior and make negative emotional associations with visitors. For this, I recommend creating a “safe place” for the dog.

A “safe place” is a room, crate, or other confinement area where your dog stays when people visit – or when visitors first arrive and get settled. It should be a place your dog feels can relax. For dogs that are fearful, reactive, or overly exuberant with visitors, the safe place prevents your dog from making negative associations or practicing bad behavior with visitors. This is a critical part of the training process for fearful, reactive, or “hyper greeter,” dogs. For some dogs, this is a stepping stone toward training to be calm and comfy around strangers after people have come in and settled. For other dogs, the safe room may be a long-term solution.

Covering a crate with a towel can make it more cozy for some dogs

How to Create a Safe Place?

The best safe place is…

  • As far as possible from the door where people enter
  • At least one door (two is better). For dogs with a bite history, you definitely need at least two barriers, such as a crate inside a closed bedroom. This backup is in case a child or guest opens the bedroom door or the crate door doesn’t latch properly. The other barrier will still be there to keep everyone safe. A sign on the door that says, “KEEP CLOSED. DOG SAFE SPACE” reminds guests it’s NOT the bathroom or coat closet
  • Sound masking – continuous white noise is best, such as a fan or white noise machine
  • A drop of lavender or other calming essential oil on a blanket near the crate may also help (don’t use more than a drop, and forego if you  have cats – it’s not safe for them)
  • An engrossing high-value chew: a meat marrow bone, frozen stuffed Kong, or bully stick. For dogs that are power chewers, you may need to bring a new chew every so often. Remember that for these stressful situations, that old Nylabone or squeaky toy is not going to be good enough. Use the high-value chews!

Condition Your Dog to Love Their Safe Space

When possible, make the crate a happy and relaxing place from puppyhood to build a lifelong positive association with going into the crate

You MUST get your dog to be happy and comfortable in their safe space when visitors are NOT present! Otherwise, being sent to their safe space becomes a predictor that strangers are going to arrive, getting your dog worked up or worried every time they go to their safe space.

If your dog already likes being in their crate or room by themselves with their chew, simply do a “dress rehearsal” once every day or two at different times: take them to their safe place, turn on the white noise, give them their high-value chew, and leave them alone. They’ll learn sometimes they go there before people come. Sometimes they go there just to relax.

For dogs that don’t already have a crate or room where they’re comfortable being alone, you may need to help them get used to it by spending some time with them in the room, and then over time, periodically walking out, shutting the door, come back in, etc. Help them learn it is no big deal to be in their safe space by themselves, enjoying a delicious chew.

Remember: A safe place does not take the place of training. It helps set the stage for more successful training by reducing stress (for dogs, owners, and visitors alike) and creating more positive associations with strangers. Once this protocol is in place, the training that comes after will be easier, more pleasant, and much more effective.

Filed Under: Behavior modification, Dog training, Enrichment, Fearfulness or anxiety, Management (Prevention), Reactivity Tagged With: greeting, management, prevention, reactivity

Help for service dog owner-trainers! (Or those considering it)

November 26, 2018 by sharon Leave a Comment

Picture of a man sitting on a window ledge outside with a rough-coated collie service dog lying by his feet. Text: "The most important thing you need to train a service dog is... A) the right dog, B) Commitment (obsessive level), C) Money (more than you'd think), D Time (loads of it)There is a lot of conflicting, misleading, and downright bad information online (and even in books) about service dog training. Now service dog owner-trainers who are on a budget or are outside my local training area can get help and accurate answers to their questions!

  • Monday 12/3 – Webinar on service dog owner-training
  • Sunday 1/6 – Group service dog training consult in Northampton, MA
  • Saturday 2/2 – Workshop on service dog owner-training in Athol, MA
  • Sunday 2/10 – Group pre-adoption consult for finding the right ESA or SDiT candidate

A week from today, Monday, December 3, 2018, I’m giving a webinar through the Pet Professional Guild that will answer your questions — Service Dog Owner-Training: Is this the path for you?

Training a service dog for yourself or a family member, usually referred to as “owner training,” is quite an undertaking. It can lead to confusion, stress, and many questions. It can be a maze to figure out whether it’s the right path for you, or once you are on the road, the best way to go about it or to get your questions answered. The upcoming webinar has answers.

Best of all, not only is it very affordable and available to anyone with an internet connection, it also offers great flexibility. Once you register, you’ll be able to watch the webinar any time, so if you can’t attend live on Monday, you’ll still have access to all the information. You can watch it more than once or refer back to the slides and handouts if you ever have questions.

Golden retriever puppy lying on floor with red plush bone toy on its front legs. Text: "The first training priority for a future SD puppy is A) Basic obedience (sit, down, heel, come…), B) Short, positive experiences around new people & things, C) Bonding with their future handler, D) House training"

As one of relatively few trainers who specializes in helping people to train their own service dog, I get calls and emails from people all around the country. I often wish I could help more people who are outside of my region. This webinar is your chance to get your questions answered, no matter where you are!

This webinar is for you if you are…

  • Already training a service dog for yourself or a family member
  • Considering getting a dog or training the dog you already own to assist you or a family member
  • A therapist, doctor, or other health care worker who has recommended an ESA or service dog or been approached by clients or patients about getting a service dog or emotional support animal
  • A pet dog trainer who would like to learn more about what is involved with training a service dog

Golden retriever wearing bandanna that says "Future Leader Dog" sits in front of American flag in a park. Text: "What differentiates...? Service dog, Therapy dog, Emotional support animal (ESA), Service-dog-in-training (SDiT)"The webinar covers questions like:

Is it better train your own service dog or apply to a program for a fully trained dog? What are the benefits and drawbacks to each? What is the fastest way to get a service dog? What is the most affordable way to get a service dog?

Which laws apply? What’s the difference between service animals and emotional support animals? Are there laws that effect where I can bring my service-dog-in-training?

What is the training process? Can I start training assistance tasks right away? Should I bring my puppy everywhere to set the stage for public access training? When is the right time to consult with a professional service dog trainer? Answers to your other questions!

At the end, you’ll also get a link and password to numerous handouts, articles, and other resources, including training videos and referrals to other trainers.

Drawing of a woman holding her forehead in her hand with a thought bubble of a puppy above her. Caption says "Hindrance dog???"
Find out what a “hindrance dog” is! (It may not be what you expect)

Topics Covered

Service Dog Definitions, Terminology, and Laws

Challenges of Service Dogs

Pros & Cons of Owner-Training vs a Program Service Dog

The Path (Pyramid) of Owner Training

Finding (the Right) Trainers or Programs

Question and Answer

Pyramid in 7 sections. Bottom section in dark green says "Acquire a dog or puppy who is physically, mentally, and temperamentally sound." Above that in pale green "Socialize puppy or condition dog to be relaxed and confident around hundreds of sights, sounds, smells." Above that in yellow, "Train excellent manners and obedience at home and in class." Above that in pink, "Train excellent manners and obedience in public spaces." Above that in purple, "Train service skills at home." Above that in tan, "Train service skills in public." Top triangle in sky blue says, "SD team!"

Get help now

Register for the webinar now. Attend live on December 3 to participate in the Q&A… or watch it any time after! You’ll be sent a link you can access whenever it’s convenient for you.

After the webinar, if you are within driving distance, you can also get additional low-cost service dog training help:

Want your dog to meet with a service dog trainer to get guidance on next steps? Attend my group service dog consultation in Northampton, MA on January 6, 2019.

Wondering how best to find the right dog as a service dog candidate or emotional support animal, attend my group pre-adoption consultation on February 10, 2019, also in Northampton, MA

Would you rather get information live and in person than online? Attend the owner-training workshop at the Athol Public Library on Feb. 2, 2019.

About the Presenter

 

Sharon stands in a hospital treatment room next to a white pitbull wearing a service dog vest lying on the floor. The dog's handler is on a gurney next to them.Sharon Wachsler CPDT-KA, KPA-CTP is a Certified Professional Dog Trainer and Karen Pryor Academy Certified Training Partner with more than 25 years of experience in the disability community. Before transitioning to a career as a dog trainer, Sharon was a disability information and referral specialist and service dog owner-trainer, as well as the founder of the Assistance Dog Blog Carnival, a writer for the International Association of Assistance Dog Partners newsletter, and the blogger for the popular service-dog trainer’s blog, After Gadget. Sharon opened At Your Service Dog Training in Wendell, MA, in 2014, offering private training, consulting, and group classes to service dog owner-trainers. Sharon is an experienced presenter and writer on service dog topics and enjoys consulting with and speaking to trainers, owners, and community groups about service dogs and their training.

Filed Under: Assistance Task Training, Events, Pre-Adoption Consulting (Finding the Right Dog), Public Access Training (PAT), Service dog laws and legalities, Service Dog Training, Service Dogs

Is your dog’s “car anxiety” really motion sickness?

May 28, 2018 by sharon Leave a Comment

When my dog Barnum was about two years old, he started to become impossible to drive with. About twenty minutes into any car trip, he would pace, drool, and shriek continuously. It was horrible for both of us. He seemed like he was having a panic attack, and nothing I did could soothe him — not chews, not treats, not training, not comforting words. Soon, he started to freak out as soon as he was in the car — before I even turned on the engine.

One day, I mentioned the issue to the behavior consultant I was apprenticing with. She suggested that my dog was actually car sick. That turned out to be the magic answer. That idea had never occurred to me because Barnum didn’t vomit. He seemed to just suddenly “freak out.” Once I took steps to address my dog’s car sickness, it really turned the situation around.

A dog that is motion sick does not always vomit, so signs of motion sickness may be misinterpreted as a behavior issue. These can include

  • Panting
  • Pacing
  • Drooling
  • Whining, panting, or other vocalizations
  • Hunching, lips pulled back, tight facial skin, whites of eyes showing, etc.

Symptoms may start as soon as the car moves or may emerge only after a specific period of time or only on bumpy or windy roads, etc. Some dogs seem fine in the car but after arriving at their destination, refuse food, don’t follow cues, lick their lips, yawn, or act tired. I see this sometimes with dogs in class. If they are given anti-nausea remedies before class or get half an hour to recover from nausea before class starts, they are able to work.

Riding on his thick foam pad, veterinary medications, and in a relaxed down-stay, Barnum can ride comfortably for hours!

Additionally, once a dog has experienced feeling sick in the car (especially repeatedly), she may make an emotional association between feeling ill and being in the car. This can result in anxious-type behavior and refusal to get in the car, etc.

If you suspect your dog has motion sickness, your first step is to speak to your vet to diagnose or rule out a physical cause to a behavior issue. Trial and error is sometimes required. They may suggest Dramamine, Benadryl, ginger, or other remedies. Sometimes the only treatment that works is a prescription medication, such as Cerenia, which is specifically for nausea in dogs.

Adjusting the environment with regard to noise, air, vision, and vibration may also your dog ride more comfortably. In Barnum’s case, what worked the best was to prevent him from looking out the windows. I believe his motion sickness is the result of an inner ear/balance issue that was caused by a year of severe ear infections. For many dogs, putting them in a plastic crate or putting a towel over a metal crate works to block the nauseating visual stimuli. However, putting Barnum in a crate made the situation worse. What has worked the best is having him tethered to a zip line for safety while lying on a thick foam mat that absorbs sound and vibration. To prevent him from looking out the windows, I have him trained to lie down instead of sitting or standing. Different training and environmental options will work for different dogs, depending on their physical and behavioral needs.

Once your dog is physically comfortable, start building a positive association with the car. Start training by rewarding your dog for looking at the car, moving toward the car, jumping in the car, etc. First do this while the car is turned off and all the doors are open, then with all the doors shut (but engine off), then with the car idling in the driveway, before finally taking short trips around the block or to places your dog loves.

Note: Never coerce the dog into the car (tug the leash, scold, etc.), as this tends to make dogs more resistant and suspicious.

Once your dog is happily jumping into the car, it can help to give special treats in the car. Giving a dog a great chew, such as a bully stick or a stuffed Kong, while you read in the front seat is often helpful. Later, a chew can help to keep them from looking out the window, but if the dog is still experiencing an upset stomach or is too anxious to eat, this may backfire. With time, patience, and help from your veterinarian and trainer, your dog can enjoy riding with you again!

Filed Under: Car reactivity, Desensitization and Counterconditioning, Dog body language, Dog Health, Dog training Tagged With: car sickness, motion sickness

Help! My dog needs exercise — in winter!

December 13, 2017 by sharon Leave a Comment

Recently a client asked how they can keep their high-energy dog exercised during these short, dark days of winter. I sent them several suggestions, and they were really excited to try them out.

TIP: Physical exercise is important, but don’t discount mental exercise, too. A mental workout can really wear your dog out! Use both for the ultimate in a well-behaved dog.

Here are a few fun ways to work your dog’s body and mind when the weather is lousy and the evenings are dark. Different ones will work for different dogs and households:

Creative commons usage from Dozer Does youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bAHf57sucxo

  • Hide and seek in the house – version 1 — find the human: Put your dog in a Sit-Stay or Down-Stay — or if they don’t know that yet, have another member of the family hold them — then go and hide. Call your dog once and wait for him to find you. Give him praise, petting, and treats when he finds you. This is also great for training coming when called.
  • Will work for food. Don’t put your dog’s meals in a bowl that only takes a minute for them to eat! Get a feeder toy — see my favorites in my post on enrichment to make your dog work for their meals. It keeps your dog occupied for a lot longer, engages their body and mind, and they love it!
  • Hide and seek in the house – version 2 — find the food: Put your dog in a Sit-Stay or Down-Stay — or if they don’t know that yet, have another member of the family hold them — and hide a little pile of food or your dog’s feeder toy. She has to find it. Nose work can be very tiring. You can hide several piles of food or feeder toys all over the house!
  • Similarly, if the ground is not covered in snow, you can add foraging and nosework to your dog’s routine by tossing her kibble into the yard (as long as she is inside a gate or tethered). She has to use her nose to find every kibble! A great way to work for meals!

    Used with permission of Eileenanddogs – https://eileenanddogs.com/2013/04/24/dog-play-flirt-poles/
  • A flirt pole is like a cat dancer for dogs. It’s a stick with a rope and a toy attached to it. You can either buy one here or buy one here or make one (video instruction) or make one (easy how-to article). This does need to be played outside, but it’s a way you can get some pretty intense exercise in a small space, like a yard, and it does not require going for a walk, etc. If you have floodlights, you can even do it after dark.
  • Play ball with a glow-in-the-dark ball. I’ve heard good things about the Chuckit! Max Glow Pro Launcher.
  • If you do want to walk your dog safely in the dark, check out Whole Dog Journal’s great review of nighttime safety gear.
  • If you have carpeted stairs in your home, and your dog is confident on the stairs, young, healthy, and nimble, you can give your dog a lot of exercise in a short period by calling him up and down the stairs between two people (and also, again, good recall training!). If there is only one person in the home, you can play fetch up and down the stairs by standing at the bottom and tossing a toy to the top. You can even toss treats up and down the stairs. Just make sure your dog is not so excited that he’s not being careful enough. You don’t want your dog to get injured. Don’t do this if stairs are open in the back, wood, slippery, etc.
  • If you have a treadmill, you can train your dog to walk on the treadmill. (If you don’t have one, you can usually get one free or cheap from Freecycle or Craigslist.) Take it slow and train it positively like this or treadmill train positively like this. Some dogs learn to love this!

These are just a few options. The possibilities are endless. What about you? How do you keep your dog exercised over the winter?

Filed Under: Chews & Feeder Toys, Dog gear, Dog Health, Dog toys, Enrichment, Management (Prevention), products

Feeder Toys: Fast, easy, inexpensive enrichment!

December 6, 2017 by sharon Leave a Comment

The gift-giving season is upon us! What better time to feature some of my favorite feeder toys and convince you to stock up on one or more of these simple, cheap toys that can make your dog easier to live with and better-behaved?

What is enrichment?

Enrichment refers to dogs using their minds and bodies — staying active, exercised, or engaged.

Two huskies on a sled dog team with Royal Canadian Mounted Police checking their harnesses
Dogs were bred to work

Dogs evolved to work. Wild dogs had to hunt or forage for food. Until recently, domesticated dogs had to work for people as hunting, herding, or fishing assistants, as protectors of the farms or homes, or as racers or vermin catchers, and more.

Today, dogs whose job is “companion” still have the drives that their ancestors had to forage and hunt for their food. But unless they spend hours of the day herding, hunting, swimming, or engaging in other mentally and physically demanding activities, they’re usually severely understimulated.

Plunk down a bowl of food in front of them that provides no challenge does not help matters. Yes, your dog may love to the bowl ritual, but after they gulp down their meal, what do they do with the other 23 hours and 55 minutes of their day?

Busy dogs are good dogs; bored dogs are . . . less good dogs

It takes effort to empty a frozen stuffed Kong

We are not used to thinking of our pets as bored. We see them napping or greeting us happily, and we don’t know what else may be going on in their minds. But our dogs don’t have the language to say to us, as a child might, “I’m bored! There’s nothing to do!”

Even if your dog spends half her day sleeping, that still leaves several hours each day when she needs to do something to occupy her mind . . . and mouth and paws. The activities dogs come up with to busy themselves — barking at people and cars outside, pulling food off the counter or knocking over the trash, or chewing shoes or furniture — are games we do not appreciate!

There are many types of enrichment — sensory, cognitive, social, and more — that can make your dog happier, more content, and less destructive. To learn more about how to offer diverse kinds of enrichment to your dog or cat, pick up the book Beyond Squeaky Toys: Innovative Ideas for Eliminating Problem Behaviors and Enriching the Lives of Dogs and Cats.

This post focuses on one type of enrichment — giving dogs the opportunity to work for their food. This type of enrichment is often quick, easy, and inexpensive for human caretakers and can give our dogs hours of enjoyable fun and mental exercise. It also means that while they are busy working for their food, they are not engaging in other activities we don’t like!

In many cases, mental exercise can even be more tiring for a dog than physical exercise! If you’ve ever started studying a new language or taken an intensive math class and just wanted to take a nap or zone out in front of the TV after, you have experienced this yourself! A dog who is working his brain is often pleasantly wiped out afterward and happy to take a nap. A tired puppy is a good puppy!

HOT TIP: HOW ENRICHMENT SUPPORTS TRAINING

As I’ve discussed previously, combining enrichment with management and training is the best way to change your dog’s behavior for the better. A common trigger for out-of-control behavior — particularly at this time of year — is visitors to the home. Some dogs bark reactively, lunging or growling. Others jump on guests, scratching clothing and skin, risking knocking down children or elders. Using management — putting the dogs in another room or crate so they can’t get to the door — is a critical part of preventing this problem and changing the dog’s behavior. But we don’t want the dog to bark, howl, or scratch at the door while she’s gated, crated, or shut in the room. If you train your dog to eat her meals out of feeder toys in that room or crate, you can give her a very engaging feeder toy or chew right before guests arrive. She can’t lick food out of a frozen Kong or knock around a Kibble Nibble and bark at the same time.

Isn’t it mean to make a dog work for his food?

Just the opposite! Dogs LOVE to work for their food. We can see this excitement at work when we give a dog a food-dispensing toy that they have to paw at, push with their nose, bounce around, or excavate with their tongue; they become very enthusiastic about playing with that toy and getting every last bit of food out.

In fact, most of the time, a dog who has learned the joy of a feeder toy will ignore a bowl of food in favor of a food-dispensing puzzle toy that she has to work to get the food out of! There is even a name for this phenomenon among scientists who study animal behavior: “counterfreeloading”!

Egg-shaped ball made of hard, clear plastic with purple rubber lattice on the outside.

Kibble Nibble

Here is a review of the “Kibble Nibble,” a large vanilla scented feeder toy which can hold an entire meal’s worth of kibble, where the owner describes this phenomenon:

Can someone explain to me what magic properties regular dog food has that when you make it difficult to get to, it becomes the most highly desired treat ever??? I have a 1 1/2 year old Golden Retriever that is a freak of nature. She is the kind of dog that you can put an entire day’s worth of kibble out and she’ll just munch on it off and on throughout the day. BUT if you put that EXACT SAME KIBBLE into this toy, she is on a mission from God to get every single piece out this very second….I’ve been laid up after having hip resurfacing surgery so haven’t been able to play with my dog as much the past couple weeks. This ball has definitely helped easy some of her boredom.

Will this take a lot of extra time?

No, not for you. It will take more time for your dog, though. Time that he will NOT spend anxiously awaiting your return or barking out the window, jumping on guests, or shredding the toilet paper.

If you feed your dog a bowl of kibble twice a day, instead you can simply pour their meal into a feeder toy twice a day. If you feed wet food (such as canned dog food or raw ground meat), you can stuff some Kongs with his food, pop the Kongs in the freezer, and hand them out for their meals. A Kongsicle is a delightful challenge for a bored dog!

Always make sure to supervise your dog with any new feeder toy until you are sure they can use it safely. While feeder toys are generally designed to be very safe, some potential dangers are the following: Chewing or taking in the mouth a toy that should not be chewed, breaking a toy that could be ingested or cut the dog, shoving a toy into a closet and ending up locked in (Barnum did this!), etc. Most dogs can play with most feeder toys safely unsupervised once they know how to use it and the area they’re in is “dog safe,” but until you know for sure, it’s best to supervise the first few sessions with a new toy.

Some favorite feeder toys 

Kibble-Dispensing Toys

  • The IQ Treat Ball is sturdy, inexpensive, has adjustable levels of difficulty from easy to challenging, can be “worked” with a nose or a paw or both, and is great for dogs of many different sizes and breeds. (I recommend the large size — five inches — for all but tiny dogs.) What would otherwise be hoovered down in a minute can now make for a half hour of great fun, physical and mental exercise! (Here’s a video from a few years ago of my dog Barnum playing with the IQ Treat Ball.) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5MTG4Dn7mGU
  • Another very popular feeder toy is the Buster Cube. This is a big toy (which comes in two sizes) that you can fit a lot of food

    A hard plastic cube, but with rounded corners and edges. There's a large hole in the center of one of the sides.
    Buster Cube

    in at once. If you buy the hard plastic version (NOT the soft plastic type), it has the advantage of being too big to fit in almost any dog’s mouth (even most very big dogs), making it hard to destroy and usually safe for even aggressive chewers. It also has an easier and more challenging setting, though it’s not as easy for people to fiddle with the levels as the IQ Treat Ball. Because it’s so big, you can fit even a large dog’s entire meal into the toy pretty easily. (This is the loudest toy. See quieter toys in the “Troubleshooting” section below.)

  • The Kong Wobbler is another larger feeder toy that most dogs love. This is a big, heavy toy that the dog can smack around with a paw or nose, and instead of rolling, it wobbles and skids and dispenses unpredictable amounts of kibble.

Toys to Stuff with Wet (Canned or Raw) Food

  • Kongs are the classic enrichment toy. They are made of natural rubber, can be washed in the dishwasher, and last for many years. If you have a very aggressive chewer, get the black Kong. For most dogs, red Kongs are fine. It’s also a good idea to go up a size or two because you can fit more in a big Kong, and you don’t have to worry about the dog ingesting it. So, if your dog is small, get a medium or large. If your dog is large, get the XXL, etc. 

    Busy Buddy Twist & Turn
  • There are other versions of Kongs, such as the large and sturdy Kong Stuff-a-Ball, and the smaller and less rugged (but tennis-ball sized) Kong Biscuit Ball.
  • There are some other rubber toy manufacturers. The West Paw Tux is an all-natural rubber toy that can be stuffed and will be replaced for free if your dog ever chews through it!
  • The Busy Buddy Twist’n Treat [vanilla scented] works with both wet and dry food and has adjustable levels of difficulty.

Do I need to buy toys? Are there free solutions?

Yes, there are! While the toys listed above are generally very affordable, in the range of $10 to $20 each, you can also make food-dispensing toys from things around the house. Here are some tricks that I learned from Beyond Squeaky Toys (and there are more ideas in the book). Definitely supervise your dog with these as some of them can present a choking hazard if they are shredded or chewed.

  • Use an empty plastic water or soda bottle. Make sure it’s clean (especially if it had soda or juice in it that had xylitol, which is an additive that is poison for dogs). Pour kibble into the clean, dry bottle, and let your dog bat it around to get out the food! (If you want a more durable version of this, there is the Busy Buddy Tug-a-Jug [vanilla scented].)
  • Lick clean the empty jar of nut butter. When you finish a jar of peanut butter (or other nut butter, or applesauce, or anything your dog loves to eat that is safe for him), you can give it to him to lick clean! Make sure that it is an all-natural peanut butter and does not contain xylitol, a sweetener that is poisonous to dogs! (Not sure which foods are unsafe for dogs? Here’s a list of foods toxic to dogs from the ASPCA.)
  • Tennis ball of kibble. Take a tennis ball, cut a few slits in it with a razor blade, and stuff kibble into it.
  • Paper bag surprise. Do you have a lot of extra paper bags around the house? Put some food in a few of them. Or put the treat-dispensing toys inside paper bags or cardboard boxes for your dog to find and extricate.
  • Forage. This is the easiest one and can be done indoors or outdoors. Take your dog’s breakfast or dinner kibble and scatter it on the floor or in the yard! Then they have to sniff it out with their nose.

Troubleshooting

The toy is too noisy

Omega Paw Tricky Treat Ball

Some toys are much noisier than others. Especially if you have hardwood or tile floors, the Buster Cube, Kong Wobbler, Kibble Nibble, and IQ Treat Ball are very loud. If you like peace and quiet, and you are satisfied that your dog is safe with her toys, you can give your dog the toys right as you leave the house (to give them something to do while they’re alone), including in their crate.

Otherwise, you can try a toy that has a softer outer surface. The rubber Kongs are usually pretty quiet because they are rubber, not hard plastic. There are also kibble feeders that are quieter, though you still usually hear the kibble rattle around inside the toy.

Some quieter kibble feeder toys are . . .

  • Busy Buddy Twist ‘n Treat, which can also be used with wet food [vanilla scented]
  • JW Amaze-a-Ball  [vanilla scented]
  • JW Holee Treat Ball
  • Omega Paw Tricky Treat Ball (one piece toy that may be easier to use for humans with hand dexterity issues)

The toy is too easy. My dog gets all the treats out too fast

There are a few ways to make toys more challenging.

  • You can put it inside a bag or box or hide it in a different room so the dog has to work to get to the toy.
  • You can put food in a few toys and hide them around the house.
  • You can use a toy with an adjustable difficulty level, like the IQ Treat Ball or the Kibble Nibble.
  • You can use bigger kibble that doesn’t come out as easily from a large hole.
  • You can make the hole smaller by putting a piece of duct tape over part of the hole to make the hole smaller (which is what I did with the JW Hol-ee Treat Ball)
  • You can soak the kibble in water or mix it with broth or yogurt, put it in a Kong, and freeze it.

This toy is too difficult. My dog gives up and walks away

In this case, you can do the opposite of some of the tricks above — feed a smaller kibble, make the hole in the toy bigger, or remove some of the barriers (with the IQ Treat Ball, you can take out the white piece that separates the ball in half). For an inexperienced Kong user, put kibble dry into the Kong, and just put it on the floor. If they move it at all, treats will fall out!

If you have a shy, young, hesitant, or low-confidence pup, you can also help them along by nudging the toy a bit with your foot so some treats fall out, encourage them when they touch the toy in any way, and otherwise cheerlead until they get the hang of it.

The toy gets stuck under the couch

Many of these toys are round and can easily roll and get stuck under furniture. You can solve this problem in different ways:

Busy Buddy Tug-a-Jug

  • Allow your dog to learn some useful skills by supervising and letting the ball get stuck for a little while and then asking them to “Show me!” Go to where they indicate, remove it, and give it back. Some dogs will learn to get faster with their nose or paw to keep the ball from going under furniture. It’s also a very helpful skill for the dog to show you where the hidden toy is stuck.
  • Use a toy that is too big to fit under the couch or does not roll easily. The Buster Cube is too big to fit under most couches and some beds. The Kong Wobbler, Tug-a-Jug, Twist ‘n Treat, and other oddly shaped toys will be less likely to roll fast and far.
  • You may also want to have two or three on hand. That way, if one disappears, you’ll have another. Eventually, you’ll find them again. Fortunately, many feeder toys are inexpensive, so having a few won’t break the bank.

The toy is too messy

Some people have had experiences of messy Kongs with peanut butter getting smeared on floors, the furniture, or the dog’s fur. If you’re using a kibble feeder toy, as long as your dog eats all their kibble, there is no mess. Another simple solution is to give the dog their feeder toy in their crate or exercise pen. That way, the food stays contained. Giving the dog the toy out in the yard is another solution.

If you’re using canned food or raw meat, freezing it in the Kong usually means there’s not much mess because the dog licks it out as it thaws. I also have had a rule with all my dogs that they only eat a Kong or chew toy in their crate or on their mat. They are not allowed to bounce it all over the house and have raw meat go flying everywhere! If you want the same rule, either give the toy to your dog inside their crate or supervise and tell them to take the toy back on the mat or in the crate if they move off (or put it back yourself, if they don’t know what you mean yet).

I feed only raw, whole pieces of food

If you feed raw, most of these toys won’t work, but you can apply a lot of the same concepts to enrich your dog’s eating experience. You can use large bully sticks or dehydrated cow tracheas as a long-lasting chew the dog has to work to eat.

To add challenge, you can hide them in a box or bag, put more than one around the house, or thread a bully stick through one or two or three Kongs so the dog has to remove the toys to get to the chew, etc.

What about enrichment for my cat?

There are cat feeder toys, too:

  • Kong Wobbler for cats
  • PetSafe SlimCat Food Dispenser toy
  • PetSafe Egg-Cersier Meal Dispensing Cat Toy
  • and other commercial products.

You can also enrich your cat with many other ideas found in Beyond Squeaky Toys or listed above, such as hiding food in paper bags or boxes.

Have fun!

Giving your dog puzzles to work for his food will make him happier and calmer and therefore less destructive. It’s a great way to keep a dog engaged and quiet when she might otherwise be barking and worry. It is also a lot of fun! Have fun shopping and happy holidays!

Filed Under: Dog toys, Dog training, Enrichment

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